Electric Fuel Pump Install

I wanted to post this because of a few reasons. This board and it's members have always been good to me and helped me with lots of Info. Since it was just Thanksgiving, I am saying thanks and wanted to post a simplified version of the Electric Fuel Pump/Jeep Fuel Filter Upgrade. A post by another Member that wrote one call same thing for dummies helped me with this. I found a few different things that may be of use if you are experiencing the following.My Samurai is an Early 1988 model and it has a Rebuilt 1.3L with all OEM Suzuki Parts Motor. Doug Thorley Headers, Blaster 2 Coil and Weber Carb. Below all of the text in the Post, There is a Pic of when I first bought it and a Pic of after all the Stuff I have done to it.

• Electric Fuel Pump Install

Anyways, first let's talk about the Fuel Pump and Jeep Filter Deal.#1 My Samurai had been running like crap for awhile. I did a Mud Run this Summer and was literally embarrassed by it's performance even though I have taken good care of it and been putting alot into what it has become.#2 I had replaced my Mechanical Fuel Pump with an expensive one, I can't remember what brand, may have been a Carter earlier this year.

Ever since then it had run worse that it ever has even with a freshly rebuilt OEM Motor bored out.20 Over. My friend and 4 Wheel Mechanic and I took the Weber apart and rebuilt it during the summer because I was having power loss and stalling issues On Road. Off Road it was doing even worse. Even after he and I installed New Adapter Plates and Rebuilt the Carb, something was still not right. So, I just recently bought a 1990 Tracker for it's motor and needed to put in an electric Fuel Pump for when it is installed with my Intake.If You are either going to do a 8 Valve Swap and Use Your Intake or just wanna get your Weber powered Zuk operating better, here it is in Simple and Plain Format.A: Buy a Carter Electric Fuel Pump at NAPA.

Electric Fuel Pump Install

They keep em' in Stock and the PART# is NFP P74029. You can tell em' just P74029 and they will be able to find it for you. Here is a Pic of it:Here are the Specs:Part Number P74029Nominal Voltage 12Gal per Hour Wide Open 20-30PSI Shut-Off 3.5-5.5Ground Pos/Neg NEGPump Location IN-LINEThe Pump Works Great and I mean GREAT! I CANNOT HEAR THIS PUMP RUNNING ON MY ZUK and I have it Bolted to the Underneath of the Truck bed underneath where the Back Seat Goes.

NOTHING, NO SOUND, NADA. After installing it and wiring it in, I turned the Key, Started the Motor with the Lines DRY and My Zuk FIRED Right up in Maine's Freezing weather this Morning.

Right off the Bat, almost like Fuel Injection Start-Up. The Price was Right. I could have ordered this Pump online for less than $50.00.

But, I needed it today and paid $7.00 More Bucks at NAPA for Instant Satisfaction. I Searched and Searched on Zuwharrie for a Definitive Pump that would be just right for my Zuk.

I truly like this Pump and it makes the Zuk Run SMOOTH. Carb is RIPPIN' both on road and offroad.The Jeep Fuel Filter: Fram G3583 Jeep Fuel FilterCost less than $10.00 Bucks and Paired with the Carter P74029 Electric Pump, No NEED for a Regulator. The Weber is dialed in as SIMPLE as Pie. 1 and 1/2 Turns on the MIX and the Idle HOLDS Perfectly steady at 1,000 RPMS (I usually run my a Little High, I know).So, some comments on doing this.If you have never done this before it takes a little while and be prepared for this to be somewhat Time Consuming, even though I for the Most Part, thanks to other posts I had read on here and my skills workin' with the Zuk it wasn't really that bad.#1 Take your Old Fuel Filter Off and Remove that old Metal Stem coming from your Gas tank line. Just plug your Hose from your Tank (Mine is a Petroworks 15 Gallon Tank), into the Input Side of the New Fuel Filter.#2 Plan out and get creative on where you want to put the Pumo. I mistakenly misjudged the fit and wound up having to Drill a second Hole in my Truck Bed to Mount it. Not to mention the Other 2 Holes where The POS Mr.

Gasket DID NOT WORK Straight of The Box Electric Fuel Pump that I tried to install Yesterday. DO NOT BUY A MR. GASKET FUEL PUMP. YOU WILL REGRET IT. AND IT IS JUNK.#3 After Mounting the New Fuel Pump, REPLACE WITH NEW HOSE the Lines between the FUEL FILTER and The NEW GOOD CARTER P74029 Pump.

REPLACE the Output Line of the Electric Fuel Pump to your Zuk's Steel Line. This Way you know those old 22 Year's Worn fuel lines won't be getting you down.#4 Get a Roll of 14 Gauge Wire and a 1/2' Tubular Snake that will Protect your Wires going down the Frame Rail from the Engine Compartment. Yes, I Said WIRES. Because, this next part is Very Important.

I noticed that many on here that had there Pumps Burn Out had one thing in common. They Grounded the Pump with the Bolt that Holds it in place. RUN A NEW GROUND WIRE to your Battery's Negative Post. This way you can be sure the THING is GROUNDED Properly.#5 Get a Fuse Holder and install it on your POSITIVE Wire that is going back to your PUMP.THIS NEXT PART IS THE ANSWER ABOUT WHERE TO WIRE YOUR HOT WIRE TO YOUR PUMP FROM. MASON (SKYMAN) gave me a good tip about wiring your Alternator.

RUN A WIRE FROM YOUR BATTERY'S POSITIVE Post to the Sense Wire on your Alternator (If You Are Using a GM Alternator). This gives you a Real Sense of how much the Alternator Needs to charge your Battery, unlike the Samurais screwy Electrical feeds that are always requiring more than it REALLY Needs. I had done this and this had Freed up the BLACK/WHITE Wire that USED to Feed the Sense Wire on the Alternator. So,.THE BLACK/WHITE Wire is a GOOD One to Use for the Electric Pumps POWER.

If you wanna be sure, run a Test Light to it with the Key off, NO LIGHT Turn the KEY ON and LIGHT. Works like a champ.#6 Run your wires inside the 1/2' Home Depot Snake down along your frame and fit and tuck them in nicely. Then wire the Ground to Your Pumps Ground and the Positive ton your Pumps Positive. We are Almost done.#7 Take your Mechanical Fuel Pump off and REMOVE The Actuator Rod. It comes right out.

Take a Pair of Needle Nose Plier, Reach in there and tug and it will come out. Put it in a GLAD BAG with some oil on it and put it in your Glove Box or Tuffy Console. Re-Install your Mechanical Pump back on the Motor. This IS NOW YOUR BACK-UP IN CASE YOUR ELECTRIC PUMP FAILS AND YOU ARE IN THE MIDDLE OF N O W H E R E.#8 Take the Feed Fuel Line and Plug it into the End of the JEEP FUEL FILTER that has ONLY ONE NOZZLE. Take the SMALLER LINE, that is THE RETURN LINE and Plug it into the SMALLER Nozzle ON the Other END of The Jeep Fuel Filter.

Take the Output line that was on your Mechanical Pump and Plug it into the Other Nozzle next to The Return Line you just Plugged In. SO, IN SHORT. INPUT OF FUEL: The Side with Only One Nozzle. OUTPUT of Fuel The END with 2 Nozzle and the BIGGER CENTERED NOZZLE. The RETURN LINE IS ON the Side with 2 NOZZLES and is the Smaller Sized Nozzle.#9 Recheck all your Connections all the way around.

Put Plugs on your Mechanical Fuel Pump and Block up all the Nozzles.#10 GET READY TO ROCK. Turn the Key and notice how quiet it is. No Fuel Pump Making Noise. Notice How Smooth your Motor Runs and How Quick It Starts EVEN in Below 30 Degrees Weather.Get on the Road and Drive that Zuk like you stole and LISTEN to your WEBER ROAR, and SOUND like it should.

SO FAR, SO GOOD. Wish I would have Done this a LONG, LONG, Time AGO.Seriously, I have done alot of stuff to this Samurai. And Of All the Stuff I have paid big bucks for to make it rock harder, this less than $100.00 Bucks Upgrade just made me Like My Weber AGAIN.

I Took it offroad in shallow snow, and ran it through slippery and wet and snowy stuff after the On Road test and in 4 Wheel Low this thing Rolls like a Monster. I can't take credit for this post though. Alot of the KNOW HOW, I learned from reading and more reading on Zuwharrie from others experiences in doing this. I mainly want to convey that for me deciding which pump was gonna be the Best was hard. So many of us on here had Posted like 10 Different Pumps ranging from Ultra Cheap Pumps to Really Expensive Pumps. Not one Pump seemed to be decisively the one everyone was using. I tried this one and found it actually on another site of a guy who owns and MG and a Guy that Owns a Studebaker.

Both of them drove this Pump for 80,000 Plus Miles and seemed to really like it. It's PSI Specs are in the ballpark for a Weber or Harley or Stocker Carb. It's GPH on paper is not as High as RACETEP.COM recommends for a Weber, but I really don't think it needs anymore than it's putting out. You won't be disappointed. GET the Jeep FUEL FILTER.

I really believe that these 2 Work Together to run this Carb Right as this is THE BEST my Zuk has ever run.So, I got (2) 5.12 R&P Sets that I am going to install next. After that, the 1.6L swap. But, I have to say as far as being thankful during this Holiday Season. My Zuk and What I got right now ain't so bad. Not To Get Introspective, but it's a Life Lesson that I feel I have needed to learn badly. Life isn't about where you are going it's the Journey.

It's your Wife, Your Kids, Your Farm, Your Dog, Your Mom and your oold worn out jeans and same ole' deer rifle you hunt with. Every Day is a good day and those things don't need to improve. Even the Ole' Samurai is getting to where I am happy with it and I feel lucky to own the thing (EVEN THOUGH IT DRIVES ME NUTS Sometimes).Merry Christmas to ya'll and I will post a Follow-Up To the Gear Install after I do it this next week. Here is the Zuk the Day I Bought it and Below are a Couple of Pix of It Now.When I Bought It:The Zuk 2010:Merry Xmas To All and To All A Good Night With Your Families. (and your Zuk of Course).